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Unveiling Istanbul: A Journey Through the World of Jewelry and Sustainability

Trade shows reveal an industry's ambitions and insecurities more honestly than any press release. At the Istanbul Jewelry Show 2023, the conversation about sustainability was just getting started, and the gap between global standards and local practice was impossible to ignore. A firsthand account from the show floor.

As I gazed out the airplane window, leaving Amsterdam behind and soaring toward Istanbul, my mind was filled with curiosity and anticipation. The Turkish jewelry show awaited, promising a unique experience, and I couldn't help but wonder what awaited me in this fascinating city.

Jewelry shows, if you've ever attended a few, each has its own distinct vibe and identity. Upon landing at Istanbul airport, my reverie was abruptly interrupted by the frantic search for the elusive "free shuttle" to the show. The airport, vast and beautiful on the inside, was an absolute whirlwind of chaos on the outside.

Esther heading to the Istanbul Jewelry Show views from her plane and hotel

The mythical "free shuttle" remained an enigma, and I reluctantly opted for a taxi. That classic move: the driver promptly informed me that traffic would double the fare. Not one to be easily deceived, I contacted my show contact, who, like a true pro, negotiated a 20% discount. In the end, I tipped the driver generously, as the journey turned out to be far longer and more chaotic than I had anticipated.

A word to the wise: expect the airport-to-showground trip to take at least an hour, and brace yourself for a 1.5-hour adventure during rush hours. And be aware of the hotel's name next to the showground. The WOW Airport Hotel may sound close, but it's as distant from the airport as I am from Schiphol in Amsterdam (90 km from my home).

Esther with exhibitor and jewelry at the Istanbul Jewelry Show 

Warm Welcome and New Friendships

My hotel was comfortable, and I was warmly greeted by my colleagues, Agata (Blingsis) from Poland and Aneta (Bliss from Paris). We enjoyed dinner in one of our rooms, sharing stories, laughter, and ideas.

The following day, I embarked on a brief 5-minute walk from the hotel to the showground. After some minor registration hiccups, I finally made my way to the show. Immediately, my eyes were drawn to the impressive display of cars designed to captivate and entertain visitors. Right next to them lay the chairs and stage where I would be moderating a talk on sustainability with Melanie Grant, the president of the Responsible Jewelry Council. Thanks also to the lovely hub Art for Jewellery and the Jewellery Exporters' Association.

Shining a Spotlight on Sustainability

The opportunity to lead a discussion on sustainability was an exciting prospect. I relish being a bridge between those with specific missions in our industry and the everyday jewelers and jewelry companies. While these organizations live and breathe their missions, regular jewelers and companies have different priorities: producing and selling jewelry. Sustainability is on their radar but often not in the spotlight.

Esther on stage as interviewer of President Responsible Jewellery Council Melanie Grant on sustainability at the Istanbul Jewelry Show

So, why is sustainability so crucial? Why do organizations like the RJC tirelessly travel the globe to promote it? The answer is simple: governments and countries are beginning to establish rules and regulations. You want to be prepared because if you wait until it's mandated, you risk falling so far behind that you may never catch up. Sustainability is no longer a romantic notion; it's a necessity for survival in the business world of the near future.

Melanie, a true gem on stage, delivered an eloquent and compelling interview. Her words resonated with the audience, which included local journalists, international bloggers, and, most importantly, Turkish companies. Her perspective on sustainability struck a chord with everyone in the room.

Esther receiving gift on stage with the president of the Turkish Jewelry Association and RJC president Melanie Grant 

Exploring Istanbul: A City of Cats and Jewelry

After the event, I had the chance to explore Balat, a picturesque neighborhood in Istanbul, with Aneta. We roamed its charming streets, reminiscent of the scenes from the movie "Kedi" I had watched with my son years ago. Istanbul is undoubtedly a city of cats!

The next day, I continued to explore the jewelry fair with the wonderful folks from the GOLD BOOK. They introduced me to some remarkable brands and gave me a guided tour.

Walking downtown Istanbul to see culture and cats 

Insights on the Istanbul Jewelry Show

Here's what I took away from my visit to the Istanbul Jewelry Show: it's a vibrant, bustling event. Trade is happening all around you, all the time. The products often cater to Turkish, Balkan, and Middle-Eastern clientele, although some strive for a distinct brand identity. This country primarily produces for others, and you'll find copies of famous French and Italian brands in the showcases.

I fielded many questions about Turkish jewelry during my visit. Some designers, like Sevan Biçakçi, are internationally renowned, but there seems to be a hesitation to go beyond. Only one company, ABRIES, reached out to me in advance. While it's a hunch, the questions and observations led me to believe there may be a sense of self-consciousness or a lack of self-confidence in the industry. Those with a robust domestic market may feel the need to stay the same, but those looking to explore international markets appear to be searching for something more.

Esther Ligthart holding jewelry on her hands baroque pearl necklace and animal themed rings 

The show reminded me of European events from years past. Only some people spoke English, and not everyone seemed conscious of representing the show and providing excellent service. It lacked a touch of elegance in this regard. However, when I connected with people, they were terrific: warm, friendly, with a great sense of humor, often poking fun at themselves. Listening to their stories made me realize the challenges they face and the dreams they hold. I couldn't help but fall in love with the Turkish people I met; their stories left a lasting impression.

Ultimately, my journey at the Istanbul Jewelry Show was an experience I wouldn't have traded for anything. It's a place where culture and tradition intersect with a growing desire for change and innovation. I'm eager to see how the Turkish jewelry community continues to evolve and shine on the world stage.

Post-Show: Istanbul Jewelry Show in Numbers

The 54th edition of the Istanbul Jewelry Show, organized by Informa Markets with the sponsorship of Elmas Kule, broke records in October 2023. Over 1,000 companies exhibited across the show's largest October edition to date, drawing 26,000 visitors from 136 countries. Some 40% of those visitors were international buyers. Year-on-year visitor growth was particularly strong from South America (38%), North America including the United States (31%), and Asia (10%).

The show program included seminars on social media and digitalization in the jewelry industry, a session on consumer behavior trends, and the Leaders of Export Award Ceremony recognizing the highest-volume exporters of 2022. The 13th Jewelry Design Contest, organized by the Jewellery Exporters' Association, presented awards for creativity and innovation, alongside a dedicated Designer Club platform for emerging talent.

On the sustainability front, the show introduced several measures to reduce environmental impact, including reducing printed materials, installing LED lighting throughout, and actively promoting public transport to the venue.

The next edition was scheduled for 17 to 20 April 2024.


Editorial note:Esther Ligthart attended Istanbul Jewelry Show 2023 as an invited journalist/influencer/panel member. Travel, accomodation and/or accreditation were provided by the organisation. Editorial independence was maintained throughout.

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Esther Ligthart
Consultant, writer and founder of Bizzita

About the author

With over 35 years of experience in the international jewelry industry - from Valenza to the global trade show circuit - Esther writes from genuine insider knowledge. She covers brands, materials, and the business of fine jewelry with equal parts authority and curiosity.

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